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Festa di Santa Rosalia

Sicily is one of several autonomous region within Italy with its own Parliament (located in Palermo) and control over most affairs except for the Military and Foreign Affairs. Over the centuries the island was an independent crown before being controlled by many different powers including Arabs, Normans, Aragon and Spain. In 1816 the Kingdom of the Two Sicillies was formed joining Sicily with the southern part of the Italian peninsula which lasted until the 1860s when all of Italy was united by Giuseppe Garibaldi and the island was granted its special status within the country.

This has given the island a rich history and culture drawn from many influences which shows up in many areas including food and architecture. When the Normans swept thru the island pushing out the Arabs they worked hard at integrating the existing population into the new power along with making Christianity the dominant religion. This meant of course tearing down mosques and building churches. They asked the local architects to help design and build the churches, these architects having no idea what a church looked like build churches that looked like mosques giving Palermo unique looking churches rich in Arab influences called Arab-Norman architecture. Look for this in the pictures below. UNESCO recently granted these buildings world heritage status.

We are lucky to have any of these buildings at all, Palermo was heavily bombed during World War 2 this all could have been lost. The city was rebuilt and later expanded to meet the needs of a growing population. The difference between the old and new sections is very noticeable in the streets, the old areas retaining the twisted tight road layout which are no fun to drive and the newer areas having straighter wider roads which are also no fun to drive due to the large amount of traffic and a chaotic driving style. The older sections of Palermo became run down for a while as the population moved to the newer sections, recently that trend has reversed, the younger generations are moving back in and gentrification is taking hold.

We had a great local guide who took us on a walking tour of the city showing us Ballarò Street Market, Palazzo dei Normanni (home of the Sicilian Parlament) and its Palatine Chapel, Palermo Cathedral and San Giovanni degli Eremiti (St. John of the Hermits) to name a few. What was funny for me was these places were all very close to our hotel but when I drove into the city I was concentrating so much on traffic I missed it all. After this busy morning she drove us out to Monreale to see its massive Cathedral. Monreale was a royal hunting ground for the Norman Kings, King William II (aka William the Good) came there frequently and had a dream that the Virgin Mary asking him to build her a church with the treasure stolen by his Father, William I (aka William the Bad). Being King has its privileges and Monereale  Cathedral was built. The tour was very informative and fascinating.

As you may have guessed this was a busy and exhausting day but we were not done yet. In the evening was the highlight of the Festa di santa Rosalia, dedicated to Saint Rosalia. Rosalia was born of noble blood but gave it all up to live in a cave (shown to her by angels) and dedicated herself to God. In 1624 (500 years after Rosalia died) Palermo was hit badly by the plague and Rosalia appeared to a hunter who had lost his wife and daughter to the outbreak and told him where to find her remains and if the citizens gave her a procession thru Palermo she would get rid of the plague. This was done and the plague disappeared. Saint Rosalia of course became the patron saint of the city and a celebration and procession has been held ever since and tonight we saw the deep dedication the citizens have to her. A very moving thing to witness.

A walk around our neighborhood.
A walk around our neighborhood.
Kim and Syd stroll the market.
Kim and Syd stroll the market.
Ballarò Street Market
Ballarò Street Market
Ballarò Street Market
Ballarò Street Market
Swordfish anyone?
Swordfish anyone?
Palazzo dei Normanni
Palazzo dei Normanni
Inside the Palazzo dei Normanni.
Inside the Palazzo dei Normanni.
The Palatine Chapel
The Palatine Chapel
The Palatine Chapel
The Palatine Chapel
San Giovanni degli Eremiti
San Giovanni degli Eremiti
Inside San Giovanni degli EremitiInside
Inside San Giovanni degli EremitiInside
Inside San Giovanni degli EremitiInside San Giovanni degli Eremiti
Inside San Giovanni degli EremitiInside San Giovanni degli Eremiti
Inside San Giovanni degli Eremiti chapel
Inside San Giovanni degli Eremiti chapel
Sydney at Palermo Cathedral where Saint Rosalia's remains reside.
Sydney at Palermo Cathedral where Saint Rosalia’s remains reside.
Inside Palermo Cathedral
Inside Palermo Cathedral
The "Fountain of Shame".
The “Fountain of Shame”.
Piazza Bologni, the location of many Baronial homes with bad exteriors but great interiors.
Piazza Bologni, the location of many Baronial homes with bad exteriors but great interiors.
Teatro Massimo which had a big part at the end of Godfather Part 3.
Teatro Massimo which had a big part at the end of Godfather Part 3.
Teatro Politeama Garibaldi
Teatro Politeama Garibaldi
Palermo from Monereale.
Palermo from Monereale.
Insaide Monereale Cathedral.
Insaide Monereale Cathedral.
Inside the Cathedral of Monreale.
Inside the Cathedral of Monreale.
The tombs of William I and William II in the Cathedral of Monreale.
The tombs of William I and William II in the Cathedral of Monreale.
The courtyard of the Monreale Monastery.
The courtyard of the Monreale Monastery.
The procession of the Festa di santa Rosalia.
The procession of the Festa di santa Rosalia.
The procession of the Festa di santa Rosalia.
The procession of the Festa di santa Rosalia.
Santa Rosalia arriving in Quattro Canti.
Santa Rosalia arriving in Quattro Canti.
Santa Rosalia in Quattro Canti
Santa Rosalia in Quattro Canti
After dinner we bumped into Santa Rosalia again. Not bad for some shy of 1000!
After dinner we bumped into Santa Rosalia again. Not bad for some shy of 1000!
A fuller view of the procession in Quattro Canti.
A fuller view of the procession in Quattro Canti.

 

The (Semi) Long & Winding Road

Time to move on again. Inspired by the drive yesterday we (or rather I) decided to plot our route from Agrigento to Palermo to be not on main roads. I did a bit of research and saw the difference in time to be small (only 45 minutes) than if I stuck to the Autostrade. With a chance to see more of the sicilian country side I programmed the Garmin and off we went.

When will I learn the Garmin has interesting ideas of main roads… We did mostly stick to the Strade Statali (or SS) but the system once again sent us off on some curious turns. We did see some great territory but did not get many pictures with me constantly turning the wheel and Kim maintaining a death grip on any part of the car she could get a hold of. Sydney was on her iPhone and I don’t even noticed she was in Sicily.

I did notice the route took us near the town of Corleone just about the time we would need a break, how could I pass up a stop there? Ok ok… It was an offer I could not refuse. There. I said it.

Corleone was a quiet Sicilian hill town that actually does have ties to the Mafia, many bosses were born here. The local clan lead the Mafia for several decades in the late 20th century and had a violent reputation. The only sign of all this we saw was a wall advertisement for the Anti-Mafia Museum located in Corleone, a sign that the town is trying to lower this part of their history.  The closest thing we saw to a reference to the movie The Godfather was an ad for Amaro Don Corleone, a bitter named after the main character of the movie. For the record Amaro Don Corleone supports the anti-mafia movement in area. Overall a nice stop for lunch.

We continued on to Palermo and after the relative quiet of Agrigento (and  Corleone) it was a bit of a shock, very busy and chaotic roads and driving. But we made it and got a bit lucky, the taxi driver who took me back to the hotel after I dropped off the car (GOAL!) had some time and he took us from the hotel to our next target, the Catacombe dei Cappuccini and back. Thanks!

The Catacombe dei Cappuccini was originated back in the 1500s when Capuchin friars decided to bury deceased friars under the church of Santa Maria della Pace. When the outgrew this location they established a new cemetery and decided to move the existing inhabitants of old location as well. But when they dug them up they discovered the all the bodies very well preserved and the individuals recognizable. Taken as a sign from God the decided to show the bodies instead as relics and to expand the old cemetery. The rest is history as it were. The cemetery was active until the late 1800s and only a few bodies were added after that. It was quite the fascinating place to see, “living” history and if you are in the area I would recommend it. Photos were not allowed (sorry) and I did not sneak any photos (you are welcome), I recommend you look at the web site if you are “interested.” I was wondering if Syd would keep her cool during the visit and she did. At first she asked me to lie and say they were fake and I would not do that telling her she has nothing to fear. At the end she said it was interesting and commented that the tight skin on one of the residents looked like he has a blow drier blowing on his face. From the mouth of babes!

Dinner tonight at the hotel restaurant chalk full of errors in English,  Local swordfish cubes with sweat and sour red onions… Risotto with beetroot and got cheese… The menu should have been an indication, not bad but not the best as well.

Bombing thru the Sicilian countryside.
Bombing thru the Sicilian countryside.

Bombing thru the Sicilian countryside.
Bombing thru the Sicilian countryside.

Your hirsute driver/photographer/driver.
Your hirsute driver/photographer/driver.

The main plaza in Corleone, Sicily.
The main plaza in Corleone, Sicily.

Corleone.
Corleone.

Corleone.
Corleone.

Our lunch location.
Our lunch location.
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